Method and means for hair waving



July 13 1926.

c. G. 'uEssLsR METHOD AND MEANS FOR HAIR WAVING original Filed Sept. 22. 1922 INVENTOR A TTORNEY Patented July 13, 1926.

METHOD AND MEANS FOR a 1 1 ES e. NEssLna, or mew Y0, N. Y.

PATENT OFFICE.

WAVING.

Application filed September 22, 1922, Serial No. 589,743. Renewed June 1, 1926.

This invention relates generally to an improved means and method for curling or waving hair.

There is a well founded belief among many of those who have made a study of the human hair, its growth, character, health and treatment, that the heretofore racticed process of curling or waving hair y the use of relatively high degree of heat for a prolonged period of time and the employment of certain kinds of lotions, especially those including solidified chemicals, such for example as borax, causes the hair filament when of certain recognized quality, texture and condition, to sulfer a certain slight loss of some of its vital substance or its natural oil or grease, and also its color, with the result that the hair is somewhat reduced in its physical character and weight, more particularly at the end portions thereof, and there may also be a slight impairment of the vigour and elasticity of the hair in consequence of the action of the said methods. My present improvements seek to overcome these drawbacks resulting from the aforesaid dry or steaming processes of waving or curling natural hair on the head and I accomplish this substantially by a novel way of materially shortening the period during which the heat is applied to the coiled or twisted hair strand and by using at definite intervals of time in the process, a series of lotions, one of which is preferably non-oleaginous and the other is oily or greasy, the latter being applied at the moment when the hair filament is in a most receptive condition for acquiring the benefits received from the oily lotion application and retaining such beneficial results, so that there is no impairment of the natural oily and elastic character of the hair filament when the process is completed.

In the art of Waving hair to obtain the more lasting or permanent effects, it has been the practice heretofore to divide up the hair to be treated into strands of convenient size for efficient manipulation and to wind or coil the individual strands on suit-able supporting rods to which they were securely attached. Each coiled strand supported byits rod was adapted to be inserted into a suitable metallic heater tube of substantially larger diameter than the diameter of the coiled strand in order to receive, in addition to the strand, a quantity of ordinary commercial borax sufiicient in amount, when reduced to a liquid or semi-liquid form with water and heated, to render the hair soft and pliable.

Difl'erent means were employed for applying the borax to the hair before insertion into the tube, such as wrapping the wound strand in absorbent material, or a waterabsorbmg envelope, bag, pad or packing containing the borax crystals, and in some cases 1n addition, a casing or tube formed of paper or other absorbent material was placed in position in encasing relation to the coiled strand and accompanying borax before insertion in the heater tube. As a further preliminary to the heat treating operation, the water-absorbent material, in

whatever form, as well as the coiled strand, was thoroughly moistened with water in order to render the at effective to act on the hair before the application of heat.

Although the general method of hair treatment described has gone into more or less extensive use, it is open to a number of serious objections. One of the principal objections resides in the use of the specific material borax as a hair softening agent, and another is the method of application of the softening agent in which an unmeasured, uncontrolled and often excessive or otherwise unsuitable quantity of water was employed in moistening the borax for the purpose.

The unsuitability of the material borax for the purpose is manifested in various ways. One of the disadvantages of borax resides in the relatively large quantity of solid material required to produce the desired effect and which results in the deposit of solid matter in the crevices and interstices between the hair cells requiring an exceedingly thorough washing for its removal. Even when thoroughly washed a suflicient residue of borax was likely to remain in place between the cells to not only resist the application of oily substances to the hair but the stated properties of the borax have a drying and hurtful 'efi'ect on the hair structure.

Another disadvanta e in the use of borax for the purpose resi es in the large proportion of water of crystallization, ten molecules of water to one of borax, present in borax crystals and which is released when heat is applied. This released water added to the water used to moisten the borax before heat is applied frequently produced an excess quantity of hot liquid and steam in the heater tube which was difiicult to control and to prevent from escaping from the end of the tube into contact with the scalp.

In addition borax when heated tends to puff up or expand as the water of crystallization is driven off and this expansion has a disruptin effect on the cells of the hair structureietween which borax in solid form may have become lodged. This disadvantage is particularly likely to occur when there is a deficiency of water in the heater tube.

It will be seen that the objections arising out of a surplus quantity of water in the heater tube or to a deficient supply of water in the tube are brought about by reason of an irregular and unmethodical method of supplying moisture to the borax at the beginnin of the heating operation. The metho consisted in the supply of an unmeasured quantity of water to the absorbent material used to hold the borax sufiicient in amount to thoroughly saturate the absorbent material and moisten the contained borax.

Not only did the absorbent material employed to take up sufficient water to moisten the borax tend to the provision of an excess quantity of moisture, but the porous material and relatively large amount of contained borax acted as a heat insulator and interfered with the passage of heat from the wall of the heater tube to the strand coiled within the tube and thereby greatly increased the period of time required for the hair treating operations, lengthening the application of heat which is always a detrimental factor in these processes.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of hair waving which will be free from the objections referred to,

in which the use of borax is dispensed with, in which the strength and quantity of the softening agent employed is definitely and uniformly determined, in which the time required for heat treatment is greatly reduced, and in which the natural lustre and sheen of the hair is preserved, restored, or enhanced, thereby rendering my improved process much more exact than heretofore prior processes.

The present invention includes the use of a hair softening solution which does not leave an appreciable deposit of solid material in the hair and which, following a heat treating operation in a tube closely fitted to the external dimensions of the coiled strand,.

leaves the hair in a rece tive condition for the subsequent application thereto of an oleaginous lotion which preserves and enhances the lustre and general appearance of the hair. In addition to moistening the coiled strand with a hair softenin lotion, the particular composition of whic forms no essential part of the invention claimed herein, a strip of porous sheet material such as flannel, and serving as a carrier for a definite quantit of soluble hair softenin material, may e immersed and saturate in a definite quantity of water to produce a solution of the softening material of a predetermined and desired strength. Following saturation of the strip of material and the dissolving of the contained material the strip is wrung out and the collected liquid forming the desired softening solution may conveniently be applied to the coiled strand by employing the stri as a dauber for the purpose. Following tie moistening of the strand the strip of flannel may be wound about the strand to prevent contact of the hair with the inner surface of the heater tube.

While I have referred to the immersion of a single strip of material carrying a definite quantity of the softening agent in a readily soluble form in a measured quantity of water, it will be clear that a multiplicity of such strips may be immersed in a definite measured quantit of water to producea solution of the esired strength in a quantity of water sufficient to treat a plurality of strands. As the quantity of the softening agent contained in a carrier strip of a certain size is always the same, it will be seen that the production of solutions of different strengths for different conditions found in the hair to be treated can be readily accomplished by variations in the measured amount of water used for forming thesolution by immersion of the impregnated strips therein. It will be seen that the size of the strips, or the quantity of softening material contained therein can be varied as desired for a like purpose.

Following the moistening and wrapping of the coiled strands, they are inserted in heater tubes and subjected to heat treatment for a brief interval. \Vhen the heat treatment is completed the heater tubes are removed and the coiled strands, preferably while still hot, have applied to them a suitable lotion of an oleaginous-nature. Following this the hair ma be rinsed and dried and will be found to ave acquired a desirable waved formation and with its natural lustre undiminished.

In the drawings, in which a preferred form of the invention has been selected for illustration,

Figure 1 is a view in longitudinal section of a hair waving device that may. be used in the practice of the invention.

Figure 2 is a- View in elevation of strand of hair coiled on a curling rod and about to be wrapped in a strip of impregnated fabric.

Figure 3 is a view in longitudinal section of the fabric strip used in wrapping the coiled strand for heat treatment.

coiled strand to be treated.

The end of the heater tube 13 adjacent the head of the customer is arranged to be closed in operation to prevent the escape of steam or hot vapor into engagement with the head of the subject whose hair is being treated. The closure means consists of a pair of gate members 15 and 16; having a tongue and groove engagement with each other and movable into and out of closing position across'the end of the heater tube and into or out of gripping relation to the strand of hair. A cut out portion in the edge of each gate member provides an opening through which the strand may extend. A pair of spring arms 17 mounted on the heater bears against the gate members and tends to hold them in closed position. A sleeve 18 of felt or other non-heat-conducting material serves to insulate the gate members from the adjacent end of the heater tube.

At the other end of the tube a hollow sleeve 19 coated with a heat insulating covering 20 serves as a cool handle member and a closure capf21 at the extremity of the tube can be wholly removed to facilitate cooling or can have ports 22 therein uncovered by the movement of a sleeve 23 for the same purpose.

The fabric strip 12 is preferably formed of flannel and provided with a very flexible wire 24 for attaching the strip firmly in place. A section of ordinary electrical fuse wire is well adapted for the purpose.

In carrying out the method which constitutes the present invention, the flannel strip 12, which is impregnated with a predetermined quantity and strength of the hair softening material chosen for the purpose and then dried, and when put to use is immersed in a measured quantity of water for the double purpose of moistening the strip and forming a solution in the water of the hair softening'medium. By using a measured or predetermined amount 0 water a solution of the desired strength is obtained from the definite amount of substance in the dried impregnated strip. The liquid in the strip is then wrung or squeezed out, the

coiled strand is moistened with the solution thus made available, and the moistened strip is wound about the strand. The strand is not Wound with the. covering strip in all cases and the moistened strand may be enclosed in the heater without 'an intermediate covering. as circumstances require.

Because of amount of heat insulating porous material of the earlier practice between the coiled hair strand and the surrounding surface of the heater tube and because of the restricted air space surrounding the strand, the heating operation is quickly accomlished, a period of six or seven minutes eing sufiicient for the purpose. Following this the heater is removed, the strip 12 unwound, and the softened strand. treated with a lotion consisting of a compound of oil and alcohol. The alcohol. quickly evaporates following its application and the oil remains to add a desirable lustre and sheen to the hair. The strand is then unwound from the supporting rod and will be found to have acquired a satisfactory, lasting and attractive wave formation with no detrimental or hurtful effects, and may then be rinsed with pure water, or not, as the judgment of the operator dictates.

The impregnated strips are made in advance in quantities by cutting pieces of absorbent material to required size, soaking them in a solution or lotion of certain strength containing a measured quantity of the desired hair-treating substance, and then drying the pieces thus impregnated and storing them or laying them aside ready for instant use when the process of permanent hair waving is to be performed on the head of a subject. In this condition they may be put up in commercial packages and shipped or carried about without in any way impairin them, so that they will be intact and of fn l strength ready for use as occasion may require. The make up of this prepared article is such that it will not deteriorate by duration of time, and its size may be somewhat varied in accordance with requirements, that is to say, the impregnated strip is not necessarily limited to one certain size as to length and breadth, but such dimensions may be changed in accordance with the judgment of the maker of the same.

My present improvements are particularly adapted for the process of permanent Waving of natural hair on the human head, and they serve to materially shorten the time heretofore required in this work and also to reatly lessen the discomforts which the subect has heretofore necessarily been required to undergo. My improvements also minicarrying it out permit of the ready regulation of the aniount of length of the ha r strand to be waved, so that the operator is enabled to wave from one, two or more turns of the coiled hair strand as desired. 7 In some cases but one turn of the coiled hair strand is to be treated and waved, while in others two or more turns are .to be treated and waved, and this is easily accomplished by my improvements herein set forth. The lotion used during the heating step, may be made weak or strong as requirements demand, and the operator is to use his judgment as to the strength of the lotion to be applied in the case at hand. As an illustration, in the case of bleached hair, which has grown after bleaching, the newly grown part at the scalp, is naturally healthy and unimpaired by the bleach, while the old part is weakened and is in unnatural condition due to the bleach. In such a case, the full strength lotion is applied to the new grown hair near the scalp, while a weakened lotion is used on the bleached outer part. In this way different grades of strength of the same lotion are applied to the same coiled hair strand, in order to equalize the treatment and secure uniform results. The same-precaution is taken with dyed hair.

hat I claim is 1. In the art of waving hair on the head, a dried impregnated strip of absorbent material contaming a measured predetermined quantity of hair-treating substance soluble in water, said strip being designed to take up a certain quantity of water when used and to thereupon produce by squeezing a certain uantity of resultant lotion of predetermine strength for application to a strand of hair under treatment for waving, and also capable of being then wrapped around the hair strand as an absorbent covering therefor when the strand is heated.

2. In means for waving hair, a strip of fabric impregnated with a measured quantity of soluble hair-treating material soluble in water and leaving substantially no residual material and dried, whereby when the strip is saturated in water and wrung out a hair treating solution of substantially predetermined strength is produced for application to a strand of hair.

3. In hair waving means, a wrapping for a coiled strand of hair consisting in a section of porous sheet material havin a piece of wire of relatively great pliability attached to said section and arranged to be coiled about the section when wrapped around the strand to hold the same in place.

4. The method of waving hair which consists in winding a strand of hair about a core rod, in immersln a stri of porous material impregnated wit a so uble hair softening material in a liquid, in squeezing the strip to produce a hair-treating solution in moistening the coiled strand of hair with the extracted solution thus formed, in winding the moistened strip about the moistened strand, and in-heating the moistened and wrapped strand in a hollow heater.

5. The method of waving hair which consists in winding a strand of hair'about a core rod, in immersing a stri of fabric impregnated with a soluble air softening material in a measured quantity of water, in squeezing the strip to produce a hairtreatlng solution in moistening the coiled strand of hair with the regulated solution thus formed, in winding the moistened strip about the moistened strand, and in heating the moistened and wrapped strand in a tube substantially fitting the exterior of the wrapped strand.

6. The method of waving hair which consists in winding a strand of hair about a corerod, in immersing a strip of fabric impregnated with a soluble hair softening material in a liquid, in squeezing the strip to produce ahair-treating solution in moistenmg the coiled strand with the solution thus produced, in winding the moistened strip about the coiled and moistened strand, in heating the moistened and wrapped strand in a suitable heater, and in treating the coiled strands following the heating operation with an oleaginous 1i uid.

7. The metho of waving hair which consists in winding a strand of hair about a core rod, in immersing a stri of fabric impregnated with a soluble hair-softening material in a measured quantity of water, in moistening the coiled strand with the solution thus produced, in winding the moistened stri about the coiled and moistened strand, in heating the moistened and wrapper strand in a. tubular heater having an internal diameter substantially fitting the wrapped strand, and in treating the coiled strand following the heating treatment with a lotion including oil and alcohol whereby upon evaporation of the alcohol the oil will remain to add lustre to the hair.

8. The method of waving natural hair on the head, which consists in coiling a strand of hair on a curler, moistening the part of said coiled strand adjacent the head with a lotion of certain full strength and moistening the outer part of said coiled strand with a weaker lotion, then applying heat to said moistened hair strand.

9. In means for waving hair, a non-laminated strip of fabric serving as a carrier, for a measured quantity of soluble hair-treating material soluble in water and leaving substantially no residual solid material, whereby when the strip is saturated in water and wrung out a halr-treating solution is produced for application to a strand of hair.

10. In means for waving hair, a' compressible absorbent vehicle impregnated with a hair treating material said material being present in a measured quantity and soluble in a liquid to form a hair treating solution. 7

11. In means for waving hair, an absorbent carrier containing a quantity of hair treating material soluble in a liquid and adapted when saturated in a measured quantity of said liquid and wrung out to produce a solution of a substantially certain strength for application to the hair.

12. A compressible absorbent vehicle dei signed to absorb a measured quantity of liquid, said vehicle carrying a measured pre determined quantity of hair treating material soluble in a liquid for making a hair treating solution.

13. The method of waving hair which consists in winding a strand of hair about a core rod, in wetting with a liquid, a strip of porous material impregnated with a soluble hair treating material, in squeezing the strip to produce a hair treating solution, in moistening the strand of hair with the extracted solution thus formed, and in heating the moistened strand in a heater.

14. The method of producing a hair treating solution having substantially a certain strength, comprising impregnating a compressible absorbent vehicle with a measured quantity of hair treating liquid soluble material of certain strength, allowing the impregnated vehicle to dry, subjecting the winding a strand of hair about a core, the

wound hair being subjected to the action of the hair treating solution so that the hair will be moist when in the wound condition, and heating the moist wound hair.

16. The method of wavin hair comprising wetting a porous vehic e impregnated with a measured quantity of soluble ha-ir treating material, squeezing the vehicle to produce a hair treating solution, winding a strand of hair about a core, the wound hair being subjected to the action of the treating solution so that the hair will be moist when in the wound condition, and heating the moistened wound strand.

17. A means for waving hair, an absorbent strip impregnated with a hair treating material, said material being present in a measured quantity and strength and soluble in a liquid to form a hair treating solution.

Signed at New York in the county of New York and State of New York this twentieth day of September A. D. 1922.

CHARLES G. NESSLER. 

